| Side Roads Magazine
Fine dining found at The Breadalbane Inn
By Kelly Waterhouse On the main street of Fergus, a wooden Scotsman holds stoic guard outside The Breadalbane Inn.
He goes by the name Blairgowrie Fergusson. With sword to the sky, he stands in recognition of what the good people of Fergus know; that The Breadalbane Inn is a site worthy of his diligence.
One of the finest examples of Scottish architecture, the Inn was built in 1860 by George Fergusson, one of the founders of Fergus.
Inside its stone walls lies a wine cellar that boasts the best vintages that Ontario wineries have to offer, along with an impressive selection of import and domestic beers.
The kitchen is a flurry of activity, where the kitchen brigade are hard at work serving up a dynamic new menu, created by executive chef Peter Egger, owner and overseer of both the Maple Shade Room and the Fergusson Pub, two distinct dining experiences.
This historic landmark is also a 12-room inn that attracts people the world over to stay in one of the most beautiful heritage sites in Centre Wellington.
The Egger family took over The Breadalbane Inn in 1996. Peter Egger had graduated from Toronto's George Brown College as a Chef du Cuisine in 1986.
For years, he travelled the world, working in kitchens from Davos, Switzerland to Whistler, British Columbia, where he worked with renowned chef Umberto Menghi.
The insight he gained was invaluable.
He discovered the value of creating an experience that combined fine dining with hospitality that caters to both the tourist market and the local community. He saw that same potential in Fergus, Ontario.
Eleven years later, Egger has managed to preserve the charm and character of this historic landmark.
He understood early on that this former house had been through many owners and transformations, each one significant to the history of the town.
In Fergus, they take their Scottish heritage seriously.
“This history of the building and the foundation of the Scottish heritage, (are) all tied to the roots of this community; that's why we honour it. It has been an interesting experience learning about the history and the town,” explained Egger.
To honour the past, the Inn's 12 guest suites are each named after a former owner, including the Fergusson suites.
They have played host to tourists looking to escape the hectic city life, couples looking for a romantic getaway and even boutique-style wedding parties.
During the Fergus Scottish Festival (held every August), the inn is a hub of activity for travellers from home and abroad. And, every year, they host a special Robbie Burns event for an appreciative crowd.
Regardless of the event, however, visitors enjoy the Inns' authentic Scottish flare.
Belonging to a community means more than honouring the past. For Egger, it means supporting the agricultural community at large. That is why he is proud that his restaurants have joined the ‘Slow Food' movement.
Their new menu has taken a dramatic shift towards this commitment to local produce.
“It's a big change for us, and has been a goal. We've just put our first complete local menu together.”
Becoming a member of the Slow Food organization was a conscious decision. For Egger, it guarantees that his restaurant is supporting a local marketplace with fair prices for the producers, while maintaining the high quality standards that his customers expect.
It's a philosophy in cooking that promotes a healthier respect for the environment, too.
“It is about fair food at a fair market price,” he explained. “It is harder to buy something from a local farmer than it is to get something from Mexico.
“Our farmers aren't on the map with major suppliers. Slow Food involves creating a relationship between the consumer and the farmer.
“We believe that the food we eat should taste good; that it should be produced in a clean way that does not harm the environment, animal welfare or our health; and that food producers should receive fair compensation for their work.”
This means that Egger spends a good deal of time sourcing quality produce and planning menus to change with the seasonal supply.
“It takes time. The menu is basically written around what is available for the season. We are preparing all summer and fall for the winter menu. But it's worth the time.”
One of things Egger does that is not common to many restaurants is make everything from scratch.
There are some challenges with this, admits Egger, but he is convinced this adds value and worth to his menu.
The Inns' Maple Shade Room has embraced this concept by introducing three entirely new menus that include healthy choices in a way that celebrates not only the food, but the idea of taking the time to share a meal and good conversation with family and friends.
‘Leaves' is the Bistro-style menu with a Scottish-Asian influence. There is a delicious selection of vegetarian dishes.
Egger created it to be a blend of flavours in smaller portions at very reasonable prices.
‘Bark' is a menu for steak-lovers.
“For the first time in our lives we've had the opportunity to buy Ontario AAA grade steaks. Our packager hand selects each one, then we Inn-age all our meat for a traditional three to four weeks. The beauty of this menu is that we can cut the steak to any size.”
Finally, there is ‘Root,' a gourmet menu that Egger admits has an ingredient list that is more expensive, designed for people who are looking for a fine-dining experience.
It includes six courses in the Slow Food tradition.
“Putting together a Roots menu is costly, but in the end the value is better for the customer and for the local marketplace. The whole idea of this menu is that you can sit down with friends and share it, share the experience together. We wanted to make it less intimidating to dine out and have a nice meal that you know is made from scratch.”
As winners of the prestigious Vintners' Quality Alliance award for the Inn's wine selection, Egger is also proud to promote Ontario wineries.
“We started collecting Ontario wine in 1994, and having the opportunity to know many wine makers and wineries. We've been fortunate enough to select some of the finest wines. Almost our entire wine list is not available at the LCBO, and many are no longer available at the wineries themselves, because they are sold out.”
Next door to the Maple Shade Room is the ever-popular Fergusson Room, a traditional Scottish/English pub with 14 beers on tap, a stellar wine selection and a reputation for being a casual gastro-experience.
“In the old days, pubs were about the drink, not the food. Here we believe the food is as important as the beer. We offer good quality pub fare that is a step above the traditional pub grub.”
The Breadalbane Inn may be rooted in heritage and culture of what was, but it stands today as monument to the community that it calls home. Surrounded by rich farmland, close to the Niagara wine region, and close to Toronto, yet gratefully a world away, this site has a future because it believes in the value of home.
By adopting a philosophy that promotes local agriculture, Chef Peter Egger is keeping his focus in the heart of community.
“We are a restaurant for people that appreciate an old historic building and like to dine in an independent restaurant. We are blessed with a beautiful scenic area with a great community — the bond with the arts and music. Our backyard has everything that we need. We are very thankful for the local support.”
Egger was right. His Inn has all the potential to succeed in this quaint Scottish town. Blairgowrie Fergusson will make sure of it.
Story courtesy of the June 2007 edition of Sideroads of Waterloo-Wellington,
published by the Fergus-Elora News Express and the Elmira Independent.
The next edition of Sideroads will be published September 2007. For advertising information, call 519-843-2683.
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